Larches turn before the snow
Above the treeline the larches go gold for about two weeks. Start early: the light on the eastern slopes is gone by ten, and the path up from the valley takes longer than the sign promises.
A wet day on the ridge
The forecast said showers after three. They came at noon. Notes on layering, why the cheap poncho beat the expensive shell, and the hut that serves soup until the last guest leaves.
Packing light for two nights
Everything fits in a 30-litre bag once you stop carrying a second pair of shoes. A short list of what stayed home and what I missed.